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Tuesday, July 13, 2010
In the Plus Size Community
I had the opportunity to spend several weeks talking to plus-size designers, bloggers, activists and customers. I also
went up to New York for the second Full-Figure Fashion Week. It was an eye-opening experience. I can't say that I agree with
the women who are skeptical of the research that says obesity is bad for your health, but I was fascinated by the depths of
so many of the women's confidence. I spend so much time fretting about 10 pounds or 5 pounds, that it distracts from
the pleasures of the day. I feel confident that my obsessing is not because I write about the fashion industry and so spend
a good deal of time around the reed like models. I fully recognize that these young women are as rare as 7 foot tall basketball
players. It's pointless to try and emulate them. But I do see some beautiful clothes that I would like to wear. And
I know that if my weight rises above a certain level - game over. No Narciso Rodriguez for me. No Marni. No Dries. So
my wish is that the plus-size women that I met during the course of the story can spread a little of their self-confidence
around. They've got plenty to spare! The story also generated a letter to the editor. Someone complaining that I was
sermonizing about size and not describing the clothes. That assessment, I have to say, was a piece of bull... The letter,
I think, was from someone who didn't want to hear about the issues at the heart of this community of women. She didn't want
to deal with the fact that self-esteem, politics and cultural stereotypes are inseparable from a conversation about the plus-size
market. Would that it wasn't so. But when major plus size retailers declare their customers a season behind the mainstream
when it comes to trends....well, i think that says plenty. Just because they wear a size 16, they're out of step with fashion
trends? That story would have been remiss if it had been all about pretty clothes and ignored the social issues. Clearly
the letter writer is not a regular reader of my fashion stories....
8:14 pm edt
Monday, June 28, 2010
Existential Fashion Angst
Yesterday afternoon, I was reading the Stye and Arts section of the Washington Post, when I was particularly intrigued
by my colleague Anne Midgette's story (part one of two parts) about the future of opera in America. I was curious because
she talked about how opera is an expensive enterprise, often perceived as elitist, that is aimed at a small, niche audience.
It sounded a lot like a description of high-end fashion. But the presence of the stories themselves suggested to me that the
Post position on opera was that it was vital and important and even though only a small audience was interested - and not
necessarily an audience that is quick with a computer mouse - it was a subject that we would cover and cover well. Anne
is an extraordinary writer and a top expert in her field. So, our coverage is as it should be. But it made me wonder why I've
been so paranoid about the place that fashion coverage occupies in that same universe. To be sure, there hasn't been any direct
or indirect, for that matter, suggestion that high end fashion coverage isn't an important piece of our cultural and style
plate. I think, perhaps, the snide e-mails that come from some folks who just out-and-out HATE fashion are starting to get
to me. Or perhaps it's because my time is split between fashion and FLOTUS. And even when FLOTUS attends a student concert
and does little more than smile, that must be documented, while I struggle to find time to write about fashion businesses
that are changing the way we dress or the way we think about women, beauty and aging. I understand. It's all about the
clicks. It's all about resources. But somehow fashion is neither fish nor fowl. It's not considered "arts" and it's
not politics. I fret that soon it won't be considered. It's not the most important thing in the world, certainly. But it does
tell us a lot about who we are as a society in the same way that great architecture, music and art do. People seem to automatically
understand the relevance of those other fields. But it's always a struggle to convince them that the same is true for fashion. Ever
since I began writing about fashion, oh so many years ago, I've had my own love/hate affair with it. It can be frustratingly
silly. But every now and then, something substantial happens. Some fashion show - like a recent Comme des Garcons one -- speaks
volumes about how we relate to the homeless and to poverty. Or some fashion business - like Gucci - becomes a marvel of acumen
and innovation. I wonder what it will take to convince the non-believers, the skeptics that it matters? Would it convince
them if designers stopped putting on fashion shows and instead presented their collections in the dull, fluorescent light
of a convention center? Do more fashion companies need to go public so that Wall Street becomes more of a stakeholder? Do
designers need to march on Washington for copyright protections? What will convince folks that a billion dollar industry is
relevant?
8:31 am edt
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
New York, Sweet New York
I have been to New York numerous times since I moved back to DC last June. But for some reason, this time, I felt pangs
of sadness. I miss this town! Maybe it's because I finally managed to spend a couple days here when the weather was nice.
Or maybe it was simply that the champagne was especially tasty at the CFDA awards Monday night.
In any case, I
arrived Monday afternoon. (After doing a little Q &A appearance at the Newseum on Saturday. Could someone please tell
the powers that be at the Post that I helped sell a few dozen books? Michelle: Her First Year as First Lady. I don't actually
make any money off the book. At least not directly. But its success reflects well on me and ultimately, that helps keep my
gainfully employed.) I went to the Oscar de la Renta resort show where I practically tripped over Desiree Rogers who was seated
in the front row next to Anna Wintour. Ms. Rogers has become quite the fashion presence. When last I saw her, it was at the
Costume Institute party. Freed from the White House and DC traditions, she seems to be luxuriating in the bosom of the fashion
industry. Good for her.
ODLR's show as pretty but nothing to jump up and cheer about. Resort shows are like that.
Nice, commercial clothes that make retailers happy but do not fuel a story.
Then I did an interview for a documentary
crew from Canada about philanthropy and fashion, specifically with ODLR. They tried so hard to get me to say that ODLR is
a devoted and wonderful philanthropist but I declined. He's a charming man, but I don't know what's in his heart. Who knows
why he does what he does.
Then it was back to my hotel to prep for the CFDA awards. Basically, I needed to set
the hair so it would withstand my usual nervous sweat-fest!
The awards were especially fun this year and I made
a point of seeking out Michael Kors, Iman and Paper magazine's Kim Hastreiter to give them big hugs of congratulations for
their awards. They were super deserving in my opinion.
In the morning I had breakfast with Harriette Cole, formerly
of Ebony. She had been acting editor in chief as well as creative director until this week. Linda Johnson hired a new editor
in chief, but frankly I think Harriette deserves more credit than that press release gave her. She really transformed the
magazine. And July has Prince on the cover....with an interview. That's quite a coup.
I'm meeting Susan Rolonze
for dinner tonight. She used to be an editor at the Tobe Report, a big retail consultancy. She's a good, wise egg and I'm
looking forward to a little vino at Bar Boloud.
Big news in fashion media news: Sally Singer of Vogue is the new
editor of T:The New York Times Style Magazine. Yay for Sally! She was one of the best things about my short tenure at Vogue.
She is smart, well-read and just a lovely person. I only wished she spoke louder. I was constantly saying: What? I'm sorry?
Pardon?
Anyway, big congratulations to Sally.
5:25 pm edt
Friday, June 4, 2010
There are no corrections in cyberspace
Ordinarily I refrain from commenting on the things that are written about me on blogs. Some of it is extraordinarily kind.
And for that I am deeply flattered. Some of it is not so kind. And to that I say: It's only fair. I'm lucky enough to have
a pretty big platform from which to share my opinions. My day job gives me precious real estate every Sunday and I take that
seriously. I know people will disagree with things that I write and I figure the trade-off is that I have to stand clear when
they voice their complaints. As I said, it's only fair. But recently, one of the blogs that keeps a watchful eye over
all things related to the first lady published some erroneous information about moi. It wasn't on purpose. And I wasn't angry
about it. But I sent an e-mail to tell them the information was wrong. I actually thought they'd say oops and take down the
incorrect info. Instead, they issued a correction. Sort of. Whatever. The problem is that nothing ever goes away in
cyberspace. And the reality is that everyone makes mistakes. But if the corrections for those mistakes get muddled up in so
much sarcasm, vitriol and bullshit - who's to know if it's a serious correction? People believe what they read on the internet.
A lot of folks treat all the information they find online equally - one bit of information is just as reliable as the next,
just pick the "fact" that makes you happy.
7:09 pm edt
Saturday, May 22, 2010
I Hate the DC Government
At the moment, I'm in a foul mood because the DC department of transportation has rerouted tour buses past my apartment
and down tiny little 3rd Street NE. I'd like to point out that there's massive construction in the middle of 3rd street. And
that I've been complaining about this for two months. To no avail. I'm considering lobbing water balloons from
my deck. Friends have threatened to start mooning the drivers and passengers. I've just been giving them scowling dirty looks
and thinking about how pissed I am with DC. It's such a stupid, minor problem. So easy to solve. Alas, all I have is my one
lone vote. Perhaps I could rent a giant Grayhound bus and drive it in circles around Mayor Fenty's block?
Hmm. Could be worth the cost.
3:25 pm edt
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Robin Givhan
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Biography
Robin Givhan
grew up in Detroit, Michigan. She received her Bachelor of Arts in English from Princeton University and a Masters of Science
in journalism from the University of Michigan. In 1988, she began her career in journalism at the Detroit Free Press, where she was a general assignment
entertainment writer. As the newest member of a section dominated by experienced critics, she was left to carve out her own
niche: nightlife. She documented the rise of the techno music industry in Detroit.
She left Detroit for a brief stint as a feature
writer at the San Francisco Chronicle, where among other topics she wrote about a local radio talk show host who successfully
counseled teenagers in crisis over the airwaves. She returned to Detroit as fashion editor in the early 1990s and moved to the Washington Post in
1995. Since that
time, she has been the fashion editor of the Washington Post where she covers the news, trends and business of the international
fashion industry. Her work is distinguished by the way in which it examines fashion through the lens of popular culture, politics
and social anthropology.
In 2009, she began covering Michelle Obama and
the cultural and social shifts stirred by the first African American family in the White House. She lives and works in Washington, DC. Her work has also appeared in Harper’s Bazaar, American Vogue, British
Vogue, Marie Claire, Essence and the New Yorker. She has contributed to several books including “Runway Madness,”
“No Sweat: Fashion, Free Trade and the Rights of Garment Workers” and “Thirty Ways of Looking at Hillary:
Reflections by Women Writers.” She has received numerous awards including several from the American Association of Sunday and Feature Editors. In
2007, she received the Eugenia Sheppard award for journlism from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 2006, she
won the Pulitzer Prize in criticism for her fashion coverage.
In 2010, her book "Michelle: Her First Year As First Lady" was published in conjunction with the Washington Post.
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